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| The GR 20: Europe's toughest trek? | Article by Martin Salter-Smith - taken from the TGO March 2000
It may have a ferocious reputation but Martin Salter Smith suggests Corsica’s premier trail the GR 20 is within the capabilities of most backpackers – if some basic precautions are taken.
"It’s probably the hardest long distance footpath in Europe it climbs and descends relentlessly; crossing airy cols and pinnacled ridges. Its route clambers up and down the sort of steep rock that walkers seldom attempt, where chains are fixed to the crag walls for security. It’s astounding, thrilling and very beautiful. It’s a challenge and if you complete it, a great achievement. It’s the GR 20. Corsica, the Granite Island, the mountain in the sea, is the land of maquis, wild pigs and fierce thunderstorms, where people speak their own ancient language, and strive for independence from France. Napoleon, the island’s most famous son, claimed that you could recognise it from miles offshore by the pungent, heady scent of the herbs and shrubs that grow there in wild profusion.
Set like a jewel in the blue waters of the Mediterranean, Corsica offers a coastline of white sand bays which often equals the Riviera for beauty; but without the over development and crowds. It is however, the long distance footpath that weaves its way down the tortured spine of the island which acts as a magnet to so many walkers and backpackers. Anyone surveying the convoluted granite ridges, spires and acres of virgin rock in Corsica’s central mountain mass would be forgiven for thinking it unlikely that any route for walkers could be found to penetrate this vastness. However by linking existing mule trails with sections specifically developed for walkers, a route was created through the heart of this wilderness and christened the GR 20.
Now it is one of the classic footpaths of Europe , a test piece for the backpacker, and a scrambler’s delight. Underfoot, the trail ranges from smooth, shady and delightful on the old trails, to rough, bouldery, ankle twisting knee jarring and bewildering on some of the most difficult section. Many people start the GR 20 and give up after a few days others are put off doing it by the reputation it has gained over the years, everyone doing it for the first time seems to approach it with trepidation. Yet every season a stream of walkers, mainly French, complete the route or their chosen parts of it without incident.
Lying in the western Mediterranean, midway between France and Italy and a few miles north of Sardinian, Corsica has been part of France since the late eighteenth century. However, the Italian influence is strong and you will hear the old Corsican language spoken throughout the island. The GR 20 crosses the island diagonally from north-west to south-east, passing close to Monte Cinto, Monte Rotondo and Monte d’Oro and reaching its highest point at the Breche de Capitello. The crossing of the Cirque de la Solitude, is the accepted crux of the walk. It takes approximately 14 days walking to complete it in comfort although at least one rest day is very welcome.
Perfect, sun-warmed granite makes Corsican rock-scrambling into a real pleasure. You may have heard that the GR 20 involves moderate rock-climbing with a full pack; but this is not true. Certainly, there are some quite interesting sections which require a steady head, but it’s only scrambling and it’s sometimes protected by fixed chains and other equipment. If you’ve done things like the North Ridge of Tryfan and enjoyed it, you’ll love the GR 20. True, the continuous rock contributes to the GR 20’s status as the hardest long distance footpath in Europe, but how hard can a footpath be? It’s certainly not mountaineering or rock climbing. Look well to each step, especially on descents. One slip (and Corsican granite is very rough) can do a lot of damage to your chances of completing the walk. It’s not a race – take time to enjoy your surroundings. If you have ridges to cross, get them behind you as early as possible, in case of storms. This gives you more time to descend gently in the afternoons. Stay cool – drink plenty, wear a hat and swim in the pools. If you do it right, you will find that the GR 20 offers a challenge, but one with which you can cope. At the end you will feel tired and satisfied, but not daunted, hungry or shattered."
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 | | "It's wonderful that you've made the GR20 accessible to people like us who wouldn't necessarily attempt to do it carrying a monster pack." |
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